With a rich history of trad climbing, Alex won’t shy away from any task that makes him a better climber. He used extensive sport climbing training (5.14+ sport) to attain the level of fitness he wanted to free solo Freerider on El Capitan. This mind-bending ascent put him into the category of GOAT for that discipline of climbing. Alex also has set numerous speed climbing records on huge rock climbs.
Birthday: August 17th
Home town: Sacramento, CA
Current home: Las Vegas, NV
Favorite MAXIM rope: The Airliner!
"Climbing is the best."
“The Airliner has been my go to rope for 10 years – it’s an amazingly durable and high performance rope.“
Tell us how and when you got into climbing?
When I was 10 or 11 my parents took me into a climbing gym and I got super into it. I continued to climb in the gym all the time. I still am.
What do you think was the highlight of your climbing career (so far)?
Free soloing El Cap, for sure. The ultimate dream climb.
What are you doing when you are not climbing?
Nowadays I’m mostly traveling and doing events and giving talks, things like that. But generally if I’m not climbing then I’m resting…
What is the soundtrack of your life (favorite song)?
Modern rock! And I listen to a lot of movie soundtracks while I travel. I love sleeping on planes to the Avatar soundtrack or the Batman soundtracks.
Do you have any peculiar eating habits?
I’ve been vegetarian for a long time, and aspire towards vegan-hood. But I’m not quite there.
What stokes you the most?
Big walls! And mountains!!
If you could choose a super power, what would it be?
Hard to say. Flying? Sticking to walls? I’d be happy with any super power, really.
What was your favorite climbing adventure?
Maybe some of my climbs in Patagonia – doing the Fitz traverse with Tommy or doing the Torre traverse with Colin Haley.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a pro climber?
I was studying engineering, so maybe I’d be doing something useful like that.
Grade: 5.12d solo
Length: 30 pitches, 4.5 days of climbing
Soloing El Cap was the ultimate dream.
Length: 7 peaks, 30 pitches
The Fitz Traverse climbed all the major mountains in the range in one long push.
Length: 35 pitches; 12 hours of climbing
The Shaft is the proudest wall climb that I’ve freed in a day – 35 pitch 5.13c in 12 hours – it was an epic day.
© Honnold Collection, Fred Moix, Andrew Burr, Jonathan Siegrist