In the Age of 7 Klemen tried to climb for the first time and since then all he wanted to do was to climb. Soon he joined the competition group and soon had many good results. In the age of 15 he became world youth champion. In the big competitions it was a little harder and he had to fight from the back of the rankings and in year 2008 he finally got to the top of the podium on World cup competition in Kranj, Slovenia. In bouldering World cups he got two second places in year 2009.
More important for him than competitions has always been rock climbing and he spends as much time as possible in the nature. On sight is his favorite thing and in 2004 he did his 1st 8b+ on sight. Many other hard onsights followed (around 10x 8c‘s) with the hardest one beeing Siempre se Puede Hacer Menos (https://vimeo.com/117570995) where he did on sight first ascent graded first 8c+ and later downgraded to “only” 8c after finding an easier way out at the top. Klemen doesn’t like to spend much time working the routes but he still managed to do 3x 9a+ routes in 2016 in Oliana. At the moment he’s putting a lot of energy into bolting new routes all over the world and of course climbing them after.
Birthday: 14th August 1982
Home town: Rakek, Slovenia
Current home: Rakek, Slovenia
Favorite MAXIM rope: Airliner 9.1
Tell us how and when you got into climbing?
When they build an artificial wall in my school, I went to see what it was and I instantly got obsessed with the sport. Later we were climbing with friends on castle ruins, walls, houses, trees and boulders in forest. I didn’t even like to use doors to go home, I rather climbed through the window or balcony.
What do you think was the highlight of your climbing career (so far)?
Climbing for almost 30 years and still being passionate as on the first day I climbed. In competition career i won the world cup in 2008. In rock I was proud of my first 9a+ and even more of all the 8c’s I have onsighted with the highlight of “Siempre Se Puede Hacer Menos” in Chulilla (Video) I’m still waiting for my first 9a OS ;)
What are you doing when you are not climbing?
Luckily there is not many days like this but I like to walk in the forest, travel, bike, walking the dog or simply relaxing in nature. At the moment most of the things I do are connected to climbing so there is not many other days.
What is the soundtrack of your life (favorite song)?
I like to listen birds in nature. Or sometimes I go to the underground caves close to my home and listen to nothing since it is the quietest place I know. And I like it.
What stokes you most?
Bolting new line and enjoying in it after
If you could choose a super power, what would it be?
Landing from height without getting hurt. Somehow ropes help me achieve that :-)
What was your favorite climbing adventure?
Three month long Roctrip on Balkan I made with my wife in 2014. On the way I bolted my favorite multi pitch route in Drašnice (Video) and many other cool sport routes. We were climbing almost every day and discovering new places for bouldering, sport climbing and big walls. It was fun and in the future we are planning to make even longer one ;)
What would you be doing if you weren’t a pro climber?
I would teach people how to climb and I would be setting routes in the gyms.
Country/City: Drašnice, Croatia)
During a 3 month trip with my wife I bolted this route which is my favorite multi pitch route. it has two pitches of 8c+ with crazy small holds and fun moves, one 8a with amazing one of a kind tufas and two easier pitches that complete the route with nice climbing to the top of the wall. The video shows what it's like.
Siempre Se Puede Hacer Menos
Country/City: Chulilla, Spain
Grade: 8c(+) on sight
Length: 70 meters
This route was my hardest on sight so far. (https://vimeo.com/117570995) The route was first ascent graded 8c+ and later downgraded to “only” 8c after finding an easier way out at the top.
Joe Mama, Papichulo, La Rambla
I don't like working that long on routes but sometimes it is worth it. So I still managed to climb three 9a+ routes in 2016 in Spain.
© Anja Bečan, Christine Grassman, Christopher Deutschmann