Six years ago, Mich Kemeter came up with the idea of devoting himself fully to a route he’d only manage to climb free after specific, long-term training. In total, with his climbing buddy Stefan Lieb, they needed nine attempts to forge a line all the way to the summit and bolt the new route ground-up. This summer Mich Kemeter succeeded in red pointing it with the new MAXIM® Platinum® rope.
Completing this climb up the South West Face of Schartenspitze transformed into a “Tortour”, that’s how the route got it’s name. It was Mich Kemeter’s first experience at bolting a new route ground-up, which was tough physically and mentally. He remaining focused for many years, in order to find the right way past the razor sharp boulder cruxes, up the steep weathered rock and through the repelling roof with its shallow pockets, turned out to be a highly rewarding experience.
Taking into account his current form, the roof seemed impossible. Previously, it had only been breached with the use of aid, and his numerous free climbing attempts failed after just a few moves. Realizing this was almost "impossible" Mich Kemeter knew this was the challenge he was after. He accompanied each move mentally for years and his desire to become good enough to finally climb the entire line free and in a single day. In the middle of this year, Mich spent six out of ten consecutive days to savor the joy of linking the last move. Belayed by his climbing buddy Paul Kiefer, they summited together and smiled.
Grade suggestion: 8c
6a+, 7a+/b, 7a+, 8b+, 8c, 7c, 6a+, 7b+
First ascent: 2011- summer 2012 with Stefan Lieb: ground-up with no previous knowledge of the line
First redpoint: 15 June 2017 with Paul Kiefer
Equipment: 12 Quickdraws, Cams BD 0,5 & 0,75
© Frank Kretschmann